wagamama: england's dreaming once again
Before I was a Japanophile, I was an Anglophile. I swear. In junior high school, my favorite band was the Sex Pistols. I had a postcard set of the English royals that I got on a family vacation to Walt Disney World. You know, Epcot Center, with that little corner of the theme park made to look like the England of my imagination. During the recent World Cup, when I wasn’t rooting for the impossibly incompetent Japanese soccer team (or the slightly-less-incompetent Korean Red Devils) I was cheering on Becks and Rooney, Rio Ferdinand and John Terry and the rest of the gang.
These days, I sometimes find myself in that other island nation, and it’s about as far as one can get - both physically and psychically - from a decent bowl of ramen. Subsisting on fish, chips, and sheperd’s pie is the old cliche, but in truth, England is a bounty of positively delectable Indian restaurants, doner shoppes, and vegetarian and alternative cuisines. Should Pret-A-Manger ever invade our American shores, Starbucks and McDonald’s would be driven out of business and the average Yankee waistline slimmed by quite a few inches.
Wishful thinking perhaps, but any attempt at a British gastronomic invasion should most certainly exclude Wagamama ramen. For the love of God and Queen, keep that one to yourselves. Send over your Pot Noodle instead.
To be fair, Wagamama is about as British as it is… Japanese. I forget the backstory printed on the menu, but the chain was started by a bloke from Hong Kong or something like that. In much the same way KFC had to change it’s name because it technically wasn’t “chicken,” Wagamama and “ramen” ought not be mentioned in the same breath. It’s noodles in soup, yes. But the similarities end there. “Seafood ramen” is served in a bland chicken (shio?) stock with some fresh spinach and assorted toppings - an overcooked egg, an imitation crabmeat stick, and um, some grilled teriyaki chicken. The noodles are floury - cropped short - and have a chew more akin to Hawaiian saimin than any sort of ramen I can think of.
What’s truly sad, however, is that after weeks of doner kebabs and South Indian daal, I usually wind up craving a mediocre bowl of Wagamama “ramen,” some of their perfunctory gyoza, and the odd side dish or two. It certainly doesn’t help that their franchises boast astounding minimalist decor worthy of the Tate Modern - a welcome respite from rain-soaked cobblestone walks and row houses, as romantic as those may be. It’s just a shame that one has to sit down and eat something in order to enjoy the environs.
| is it canned chicken stock? is it shio? does it really matter? it's... soup noodles! cheers. | 2 |
| short, curly and floury. more akin to hawaiian saimin than ramen. | 1 |
| aargh. teriyaki grilled chicken might be halfway decent on its own or over a bed of rice. fresh baby spinach is... healthy i guess. | 2 |
| gyoza was passable. yakitori (?!) was sweet with a thick tare sauce. freshness counts. | 4 |
| beautiful, modern minimalist cafeteria spaces are wagamama ramen’s real draw. | 10 |
| contrary to stereotype, england is a country filled with exemplary cuisines from many parts of the world. unfortunately, japanese ramen is not one of them. that wagamama exists is something of a blessing, i suppose. it’s right up there with yo! sushi. the less said the better. | 3 |
the argus building, off north road mon - sat: 12pm - 11pm | 5 |





















Oooh, colorful~! So wait, the rating is out of 10 right?