ごまいち gomaichi: sesame and sour

by rameniac | 25 Jul 2009

Gomaichi and Goma Tei are a pair of tan tan men specialty shops on the western end of downtown Honolulu, twin operations the result of an apparent falling out between business partners¹. Gomaichi, the older of the two, has been dishing up bowls of the spicy niche noodle to locals since the mid-90s, as if breaking a sweat in Hawaii’s humid climate weren’t easy enough without a healthy shot of Szechuan-inspired heat.

Despite the restaurant’s ardent local fan base, I was not overtly wowed by this elder shop’s tan tan. Its decent enough, but the dish, a Japanese take on Chinese dan dan mian, should come armed with capsaicin and exude a creamy, almost gritty texture. Here however, the tan tan men reminded me of a different kind of Chinese staple; it’s more of hot and sour soup than anything else - a little nutty with sesame but far too sour and not nearly spicy enough. Maybe I’ve just been spoiled by Chin-Ma-Ya in Los Angeles, the de facto standard for tan tan men outside of Japan, a chain shop whose signature noodle practically glows red with heat and butt-searing unforgiveness.

When it comes to noodles, Gomaichi’s particular recipe (culled from the local Sun Noodle Factory, of course) likewise pulls its punches. It’s eggy and generic with neither the spine nor the chew to warrant a double take. Admittedly, the chashu is both generous and fall-apart tender,but falls slightly short in the flavor department, kind of like the soup it floats upon.

The owner has apparently unveiled a new type of ramen, “Sung hong men”, in an effort to differentiate Gomaichi from Goma Tei. Boasting a “spicy and sour flavor,” I imagine it goes even further into the realm of the acrid senses. It would be worth a return visit if I happen to be in the mood for such a thing. Hawaii has but surprisingly few ramen shops, so I’m sure I’ll get around to it sooner or later.

One has to give Gomaichi love for trying. With a slicked-up, marble countertop and vaguely contemporary decor, the restaurant acknowledges the way forward for ramen in America at least when it comes to ambiance - gentrified and a touch upscaled, a step removed from the down n’ dirty that endears one hole-in-the-wall-seeking type of diner while alienating the less adventurous mainstream. Goma Tei is supposedly even fancier, located on prime real estate in the Ward Center next to the city’s trendy Ala Moana shopping plaza. Next time I’m in town, I’ll have to drop in on this estranged kid brother as well, if mostly for the sake of comparison.

¹ from “In Search of the Ultimate Noodle” - Honolulu Magazine, 2008

thin, sour, and not at all spicy, the tan tan men soup should hardly qualify as that. its a fair diversion if you're looking for ramen of a different sort, but i'm not particularly overwhelmed.	5.5
the sun noodle factor can make better noodles, their strands at nakamura are chewy and capable. gomaichi's rather generic recipe falls short however, and slips as one slurps.	5
the chashu is generous and fall-apart tender, but somehwat lacking in flavor. i suppose i should count my stars when chin-ma-ya only gives you a sprinkling of ground pork when you order the tan tan men. still, that would be enough if done well.	5.5
apparently the gyoza skins are likewise made by the sun noodle company. overall its a decent gyoza, although the filling fell a touch on the dry side.	6.5
stark, contemporary wooden decor with a double-lane marble countertop, gomaichi has a nice ambiance that hole-in-the-wall ramen joints would do well to strive for. mad props to the interior decorator.	6.5
as tan tan men, the soup could definitely use an overhaul. as the first dedicated tan tan men shop in hawaii (and possibly north america), i have to give them love. i'll check out goma tei, but there's something to be said for being an original. keep on keepin' on, as they say.	NA
631 Keeaumoku St. Honolulu, HI 96814 (808) 951-6666 Mon - Sat 11a - 2p 5:30p - 9p (closed Sundays)	16