大勝軒 東池袋 taishoken: all things must pass

by rameniac | 30 Nov 2006

I was never a huge Beatles fan (see, I’m not THAT Japanese), but I remember the day George Harrison died. He wasn’t the visionary (John) and he wasn’t the cute one (Paul). Nor was he the clown (Ringo). But in his own quiet way, Harrison was hugely influential to the Fab Four’s sound, innovating the use of sitar and Indian motifs into the band’s later works. As a solo artist, Harrison eventually stepped out of his band’s shadow and released All Things Must Pass, which went on to become the biggest selling solo-album by any Beatle - John, Paul, and yes, even Ringo included.

When I think of Taishoken higashi-ikebukuro, I think of George Harrison. Not only because proprietor Kazuo Yamagishi single-handedly innovated tsuke-men “dipping noodles” and thereby changed the Tokyo ramen landscape forever, but because, like the quiet Beatle once proclaimed, all things must pass.

After 40+ years in business, Taishoken higashi-ikebukuro will be closing its doors for good come February 2007. One could easily be forgiven for thinking that the hour-long queue (at all times of day!) is a recent development due to the impending closure. But in fact, Yamagishi-san’s renown is great and his shop is something of a national institution.

Dining there for the first time two weeks ago, I was struck not only by the long lines, but by the demographic of the diners. This was working class fare for working class Japan - big, hearty portions of firm noodles and a potent shoyu dipping broth that was something of a concentrate - thick and rich and no-nonsense.

There are two ways to order Taishoken’s morisoba (tsukemen), with cold noodles (a la cold soba, from which Yamagishi-san was originally inpspired), or hot and steamy. Cold is the default, but if you want it hot, make sure to specify atsui men to the waiter as he takes your order while you wait in line.  Seeing as how the shop will be closing in a few short, wintry months - go for the hot noodles should you make it over there.

The ramen world will be mourning the loss of Taishoken come February; in fact, according to Bon over at www.worldramen.net, Yamagishi-san attempted retirement when his wife passed away several years ago. An outpouring of support from fans kept him in business the first time around. But apparently recent efforts to develop and urbanize the surrounding Ikebukuro neighborhood have finally convinced him to pack it in. Yamagishi-san himself has fallen ill and doesn’t even run the shop these days; marshalling duties have fallen to Toshio Shibaki, ironically, a Taishoken regular who eventually became an apprentice to the master chef after years of patronage.

Taishoken’s legacy will live on, however. There are now countless tsukemen shops in Tokyo, a Taishoken offshoot in Hawaii, and even a Taishoken deluxe instant noodle that one can purchase at any Japanese grocery store, with Yamagishi-san’s mug displayed prominently on the packaging (for what it’s worth, it’s damn good and close to the original). But if you find yourself in Tokyo within the next couple of months, do yourself a favor and sit down for a bowl of dipping noodles at the shop where it all began.

Yamagishi-san attemptes to crown a successor from among his many disciples.
Credit: 46E2Q